Sewing-machine attachment.



-A. KURTZ.

SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT.

APPLICATION man JAN. 20. 19u.

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APPLICATION FILED 1AN.20. 19|?.

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wlw/5885s nvvf/vron V Alfred mm2 Br 6fm/2%) Ea LW f Umm/EVS ALFRED KURTZ, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

I SEWING-MACHINE ATTACHMENT.

\ Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 3, 1918. l

Application filed January 20, 1917. Serial No. 143,430;

To all whom t may concern Be it known that I, ALFRED KURTZ, a

citizen of the United States, and a resident of the city of New York, borough of Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have invented a new and Improved `Sewing-Machine Attachment, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

Among the principal objects which the present invention has in view are: to provide for feeding in independently guided relation a plurality of mategials or layers of material in the path of, for operation upon by, the needle of a 'sewing machine; to provide meansfor feeding said material, which means permits of turning or deiiecting the material so that the needle follows a curved or sinuous path; to provide for delivering between the layers of the material when -being sewed, a lilling member; to arrange the attachment refered to so that it may be disconnected to permit the ordinary operation of the machine; and to employ a sewing machine for stitching the fulled or shirred side, smooth tip and cord for seam combined in hat linings of conventional form.

Drawing.

.tablewith feed dogs therefor, and an at- VA-tachment connected with said presser-foot,

said attachment being constructed and arranged in accordance with the present invent-ion; r

Fig. 2 is a top plan view, on an enlarged scale, of said attachment, dotted lines in said figure showing the inactive position to which a portion of the attachment may be moved;

Fig. "3 lis a longitudinal section taken as on the line 3-'-3 in Fig. 2, the figure being also employed to show the materials being fed thereto; l

A4Fig. 4.- is a cross section taken as on the line H in Fig. 2, showing in conjunction therewith "the material which is guided and fed vby thelattachment; Fig. [55 is a cross section taken o n the line -,-5'ih Fig. 2; Fig. v' isa detail View showing in plan ino'died form of that portion of the' attachment employed for guiding the corded material Fig. 7 is a perspective view showing a hat lining in the construction of which the present attachment is employed;

Fig. 8 is a detail View, on an enlarged scale, showing in section a fragment of the lining:

Fig. 9 is a detail View in section, showing a hat lining having a` corded edging of conventional construction;

Fig. 10 is a detail view,lon an enlarged.

scale, showing 'the disposition of the materials employed in the construct-ion of hat linings arranged as delivered to the needle of the sewing machine;

Fig. 11 is a detail View in section, showing a corded edging to secure which in the lining the attachment is employed;

Fig. 12 is a detail View showing fragments of the side. member and tip of a hat lining arranged in connection with a cord filler for the same between said member and said tip;

Fig. 13 is a bottom plan view of the edging guide tube; i

Fig. 14C' is an end View of the same, showing in connection therewith a corded edge strip; .v l

Fig. 15 is an end view of a feed tube contructed in accordance with the I'nodilied crm.

Description.

As seen in the accompanying drawings, the attachment embodies a shortened sewin g machine presser-foot 17. The foot 17 has a slotted shank 18 provided with a bifurcated end 19, between the members whereof rest a set screw 20 and a presserfoot bar 21. The foot 17 has a shortened body, at the forward endwhereof an opening 22 forms a passage for a sewing-machine needle 23. The sole 2-1 of the foot 17 -is shortened to limit the pressure area exerted thereby on, the cloth between the same and the. feed dog 25 of the sewing machinery. The diminished area thus provided facilitates the turning of the material as the same passes the needle. This operation is also facilitated by the fact that the -sole 24 is at the far side of said needle.-

ln lieu o f the elongated foot structure with which the usual sewing machine is provided, the present attachment is supplied Y with a spring foot 26, which normally eX- lproduced in the side body 2t) of the hat lining, as seen best in Figs. 7 and 9 of the drawings. ln Fig. 2 of the drawings the side body Q9 is indicated by dotted lines to show the straight-line feed of the material i forming the side body, to the sewing inachine. Vfhen being thus fed, the material of he side body 2f) is supported by an apron 30, and is guided by the curved wall 3l thereof. The material of the side body 29 is also guided by the foot 3:2 of a gage plate 33. l

The plate 33 is slotted lengthwise to receive a block 34, as shownbest in Fig. 4 of the drawings. The block 34 has a screw which is engaged by a nur 3G, the manipulation of which clamps in set position the plate 233. As shown best in Fig. 4 of the drawings, the foot B2 serves as a guide. for the material of the tip 37, as well as for the material of the side body 29.

The tip 37, as shown in the drawings, is preferably constructed of two or more layof material. rl`he usual construction provides two layers, one of which is a facing and the other a stitfeniug material, such as buckram, hair-cloth or other suitable mate rial for holding the tip in its panel-like shape. The materials, when disposed in layer form. are fed to the needle 23 of the sowing machinery, and to the 'foot 17 above a tube and the tip 3S) thereof. The foot 32. as above stated, operates as a guide or gagel for positioning said tip.

Between the tip 37 and the side body 29, and between the edge margins thereof, is disposed the doubled thickness of the edg ing 40. The edging 40 is fed through the tube. 38, and is guided by the wall 41 there of and by the tip 3S), which presses upon the edging Yl() in juxtaposed relation to the. cover 42 of a cord 43. Vv'here the cord is sewed to the edging 40, it is exposed, shown in Fig. 11 of the drawings, the tip 39 serves to guide the same by means of said edging 4d rl`he cord -l-' and cover 42 therefor are guided as shown best in Fig. 2 of the drawings, so that the needle 23 passes the cord at the outside thereof. To assist the tip 39 in guiding the covered cor'd 43, there is fpro vided a jaw 44, against which the tip 39 normally presses, and upon which-tire tip .32) presses the interposed edging 40 close *to Laar/gasa the inner edge of the cover 42 of the cord "he needle 23 operates in such close juxtaposition to the tip 39 that the cord and cover therefor may be said to be positively guided up to said needle. i

Das shown best in Fig. 5 of the drawings7 the short sole 24 of the foot 17 rests upon the corded or ridges material, with the end in view that said material may be the more readily turned in the path parallel to the outer edge of Ythe tip 37.

As shown best in Fig. .2 of the drawings, and by dotted lines therein, it is at times desired that the apron 30, tube 38 and parts' connected therewith should xbe removed from the active to an inactive position. This enables the operator to linish the cord or edging of the hat lining. To this end, the reach bar 27 is pivotally mounted on an extension 45 by a pivot screw k46. The screw 46 holds thereunder a detent spring 47, in the'end whereof is disposed a handle 4S. The handle 48 has a shank 49, shown best in Fig. 3 of the drawings, the end whereof extends beyond a hole in the bar 27 to engage a hole 50 in the extension 45. vWhen the handle 4u and shank 49 thereof are disposed as shown in Figs. 1 to 3 inclu'- sive. the bar 27 and parts connected therewith are. held rigidly in active position. lVhen it, is desired to move the same to the inactive position shown by dotted lines in Fig. 2 yof the drawings, the handle 4g is lifted until the shank 49 becomes disengaged from the hole 50. when the bar "27 may be swung about. the pivot screw 46.

The work having been performed for which the bar 27 was shifted.. the same is swung back until the shank 49 again enters the hole 50, said bar and parts connected therewith in this manner having resumed what 1s termed the actiif'e position.

Operation.

threaded above the apron 30 and under the i spring toot QG until the edge of said mate rial rests in guided relation to the wall 31 and ,the foot 32 of the gage plate 33. The edging 4.0, having attached the cord 43, is then inserted in the tube 38. .Vhen threading the edging through the tube 38, care is exercised to guide the cord 43 and the over 42 thereof against the wall 41 and the tip 39 and jaw 44. The end of the edging, having passed through the tube. is drawn under the presser-foot 17 above the side body 2l). The tip '37 is next inserted under the presser-foot 17, the'\edge of which tip rests against the foot 32 of the gage plate 33. The material of the tip 37 rests above the tube 38, extending between the same. and

A Lames@ the presser-foot 17. To permit this the presser-foot is cut away at the front in the portion wherein is formed the oifning 22, to form an upwardly-inclined tol 51'.

The materials having been thu, adjusted, the bar 21 is released, and the presser-foot 17 permitted to grip the several mentioned materials to force the same into engagement with the dog 25. The machine is now in condition to operate. As the sewing is accomplished, it will be seen that the dog 25 coperates with the foot 17 to step by step advance the materials held therebetween, as 1n conventlonal sewlng machines. Likewise, in accordance with conventional mal chines wherein the shirring attachment is provided, the dog 28 Ireciprocates to and from the dog 25 under the Spring foot 26, carrying forward in proper relation in full portion of the material upon which it operates, this in the present case being limited to the material of which the side body 29 is constructed. Therefore, when the combined` materials pass the needle 23, it will be found that, when sewed, the tip 37 and edging 40 are smooth, while the side body 29 is shirred. It will also be found that the line of stitching executed by the needle 23 is accurately disposed at the outer edge of the cord 43 and cover 42 thereof. Hence, when the lining is finished, as shown best in Fig. 7 of the drawings, it will be found that the seam between thel side body 29 and the tip 37 is completely filled by the cord 43 and cover 42 thereof.

When the cord 52 shown in Fig.,11 of the drawings, is employed, the stitching ofthe machine will be fourid close to the folded edge of the edging 40. In this form of the4 construction, it Will-alsobe found that the cord 52 completely fills the gap of the seam between the body 29 and the tip 37, concealing in this manner the stitching uniting said body and tip.

Modification. ln Fig. 6 of the drawings a modification of the invention is disclosed. The modilication consists in substituting for the flat tube 38 a. semi-circular Ltube 53. The tube 53 is bent to form allai-ed or flattened curved receiving end 54 and a contracted delivering end 55.l The edges of the material forming the tube 53 are ,inturned at the end 55 and `joined to forma partition 56. A relatively small guide tube 57 is mounted in said tube 53 to receive and guide the cord 43 'and to lead the same into the covering material as lhesame passes lfrom the tube 57.

'lhe tube 53, has integrally formed thereon the tip 39 and jaw 44;. The tip 39 and jaw 44 grip the edging 4f() after the same has been passed through the tubeA 53 in .surrounding relation to the cord 43, as shown best in Fig. 6 of the drawings.

When the machine is provided with'the modification just described, it will be seen that the covering or edging 40 and the cord 43 therefor, are fed simultaneously to the machine, to be stitched between the body 29 and tip 37 in the manner set forth above.

Olaww 1. A mechanism for guiding corded fabric ,to a sewing I'nachine needle, comprising a guide tube having at the deliveryend thereof a plurality of yielding vmembersfor gripping the fabric adjacent the cordthereof, said members being spaced from the line of one wall of said tube a distance equal to the diameter of said cord; and a guide eXtension of said tube disposed in parallel relation to said yielding members and approximately co-terminus therewith.

2. A. mechanism for feeding a plurality of fabrics disposed in layersy to a sewing machine needle, comprising a presser-foot; a feed dog for operating in conjunction with said presser-foot; a guiding attachment em-" presser-feet disposed in separated relation I around the' operating path of said needle; a plurality of feed dogs for advancing said fabrics under said feet, a tubular guide member for one of -said fabrics arranged for delivery thereof between two of said presser-feet for engagement by the uppermost foot; and a reach bai-.for supporting said tubular guide member, said bar being v pivotally connected to swing from the feeding path of said needle. In testimony whereof l have signed my name to'this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses. l

, ALFRED KURTZ.- Witnesses:

E. F. MURnooK, P. D. Roma-mus. 

